วันเสาร์ที่ 3 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2557

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Fish Data : Tropheops Red Cheek Cichlid



    The Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" Tropheops tropheops (previously Pseudotropheus tropheops tropheops) is small and spunky, and a very pretty African cichlid. It has a great color combination with yellow cheeks on a blue body making it a fine addition to the cichlid aquarium. The females of this species are colorful too. They are all yellow instead of a drab brown or gray color found in a lot of the Mbunas, giving a nice eye-pleasing variety.
This cichlid is know by common names such as Pseudotropheus Big eye, Big Eye, and Golden Tropheops. But their most distinguishing feature is related to the yellow to red color in the area of their cheeks and chin. This has inspired several more names that are used to describe them including Pseudotropheus Tropheops Red Head, Pseudotropheus Tropheops Red Cheek, Tropheops Red Cheek, and Macropthalmus Red cheek. But the most interesting description we've found for them is 'M'kokafodya', from Nick Andreola's article, "Tropheops sp. "red cheek". This is interpreted in the Mbuna language as 'Glowing Fire' or 'Live Coal'.
This is a zebra-type cichlid that belongs to a group called Mbunas. There are 13 genera full of very active and aggressive personalities of Mbuna cichlids. The name Mbuna comes from the Tonga people of Malawi and means "rockfish" or "rock-dwelling". This name aptly describes the environment these fish live in as opposed to being open water swimmers like the Utaka cichlids and other "haps". This cichlid and several similar species were originally part of a large group of cichlids lumped in the Pseudotropheus genus, but it is now recognized in its own genus,Tropheops.

   This species is moderate in size, reaching up to about 5 1/2 inches (14 cm) in length, and it has a distinctly blunt, down curved snout. It is also very active, so needs plenty of room. A 40 gallon tank is the minimum for a single specimen, but to keep more will require at least 50 gallons or more.

   Keeping a group of these fish makes for a very lively, colorful show aquarium. It will do well in a Mbuna tank, but is not a community specimen that can be housed with fish other than cichlids. They are not demanding and are pretty hardy if their water is kept clean. They are also easy to breed if they are happy. However the males are very aggressive toward the females, especially when breeding. A male needs to be kept with five or more females to help dampen the aggression.

  You should provide lots of rocks piled up to make caves and crevices for them to explore and to hide in, especially when the male is abusing the females. Arranging the rocks in a manner to make "territories" will help ease aggression, as will keeping them in a large aquarium with other Mbuna species. Success is dependent on the aquarists willingness to do frequent water changes, have sufficient hiding places, and provide appropriate tank mates.
The Mbuna's have been bred in captivity and with all the different hybrids that have been formed, there is no way to tell exactly what you are getting unless it is from a reputable dealer. Try and keep the different species blood lines pure.


The Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" Tropheops tropheops (previously Pseudotropheus tropheops tropheops) was described by Regan in 1922. They are found in Lake Malawi, Africa from the Maleri Islands to the Chinyamwezi Rocks. This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Vulnerable (VU). Although it is endemic to Lake Malawi it has a very restricted range, found in only the four locations of Maleri Island, Chemwezi rocks, Chinyankhwazi Island and Chinyamwezi Island, but there are no major recognized threats at present.
The genus Pseudotropheus was formerly used quite broadly for the large variety of Mbuna species in Lake Malawi. Recent revisions have split the genus Pseudotropheus into three sub-genera: Pseudotropheus Pseudotropheus, Pseudotropheus Tropheops, and Pseudotropheus Maylandia. These then became recognized as their own genera of Pseudotropheus, Tropheops, and Maylandia. This species and several similar species have been placed in the genus,Tropheops.
Other common names they are known by are Pseudotropheus Tropheops Red Head, Pseudotropheus Tropheops Red Cheek, Tropheops Red Cheek, and Macropthalmus Red cheek, Pseudotropheus Big eye, Big Eye, and Golden Tropheops. But the most interesting description we've found for them is 'M'kokafodya', interpreted in the Mbuna language as 'Glowing Fire' or 'Live Coal'.
They are commonly found in the turbulent, yet clean shores in the top 9 to 15 feet (2.74 - 4.57 m) of the water column. They live in sediment free zones where there's an even balance of rocks and sand. They feed at an angle of about of about 45°, shearing off algae from the substrate which may contain Aufwuchs. Aufwuchs refers to tough stringy algae that is attached to rocks and can contain insect larvae, nymphs, crustaceans, snails, mites and zooplankton. Some will even maintain "algal gardens" .They will also eat plankton in the water if there is a lot of it available.
  • Scientific Name: Pseudotropheus tropheops tropheops
  • Social Grouping: Groups - Males may be solitary defending a territory while females, juveniles, and non-breeding males will be seen singly or in small groups.
  • IUCN Red List: VU - Vulnerable
    The Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" has the typical Mbuna elongated 'torpedo' body shape. Their mouth is positioned lower on the head than other species, the lower jaw is shorter than upper jaw, and it has a steep sloping snout. They can grow to about 5 1/2 inches (14 cm) in length. Mbuna cichlids can live up to 10 years with proper care.

    They vary in color depending on location. The males are mainly blue with yellow to red in the area of their cheeks and chin, and a little across the back just under the dorsal fin. The front three quarters of the dorsal fin is blue and the remainder is yellow. The tail fin is yellow and there are yellow egg spots on the anal fin. From some locations the males can be mostly yellow with blue across the top back, and can have more blue in the fins. Yet still they have the yellow to red chin and cheek feature. The females are gold and sometimes have spotting on them.

     All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have and that is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.
Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.

  • Size of fish - inches: 5.5 inches (14.00 cm)
  • Lifespan: 10 years - Mbuna cichlids have a lifespan of about 10 years with proper care.

This is a good fish for both the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. It is an aggressive cichlid, and not a community tank specimen. It cannot kept with fish other than cichlids. The aquarists must be willing to do frequent water changes and provide appropriate tank mates. It is susceptible to Malawi bloat as well as the typical diseases that effect all freshwater fish if the tank is not maintained. In the proper setup it will easily adapt to prepared foods, breed readily, and the juveniles are easy to raise as well.
  • Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy
  • Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
 Feeding :

   The Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" is an omnivore that in the wild will shear off algae from the substrate which may contain Aufwuchs and will also eat plankton. In captivity they need vegetable matter which provides fiber in their diet to keep their intestinal tract disease free. A good quality cichlid flake or pellet can be used as a basic diet along with spirulina flake giving a varied diet to help with overall health.
It is always better to feed them small amounts several times a day instead of one large feeding. This keeps the water quality higher for a longer period of time. Of course, all fish benefit from added vitamins and supplements to their foods. It would not be wise to house this fish with other genus of cichlids that eat beef heart or other mammal meat, as these foods will cause intestinal infections and death in these fish.
  • Diet Type: Omnivore
  • Flake Food: Yes
  • Tablet Pellet: Yes
  • Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
  • Vegetable Food: Most of Diet
  • Meaty Food: Some of Diet
  • Feeding Frequency: Daily - Offer several small feedings a day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.
 Water Changes: Weekly - Water changes of 30% weekly, or 20-40% bi-weekly are suggested, depending on the bio load.

    The streams that flow into Lake Malawi have a high mineral content. This along with evaporation has resulted in alkaline water that is highly mineralized. Lake Malawi is known for its clarity and stability as far as pH and other water chemistries. It is easy to see why it is important to watch tank parameters with all Lake Malawi fish.

    Rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water but are not found in brackish waters. Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

    A minimum 40 gallons is suggested for a single fish, but a larger aquarium of 50 gallons or more will be needed to keep more than one or a mixed Mbuna tank. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Sand is the preferred substrate, but some aquarists have also used crushed coral or a mix of gravel and crushed coral. A substrate of crushed coral or sand used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up. They also tend to dissolves easier than salts.. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish.

    They need lots of caves and rocks for them to explore and to hide in, especially when the male is abusing the females. Females need lots of hiding places. Arranging the rocks in a manner to make "territories" will help ease aggression. Moving rocks around every two weeks to a month may also help with an overly aggressive fish. They like to dig so make sure the rocks sit on the bottom of the aquarium not on the substrate.
  • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gal (151 L) - A minimum of 40 gallons is suggested for a single fish, with 50 gallons or more needed to keep more than one or for a mixed Mbuna tank.
  • Suitable for Nano Tank: No
  • Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix
  • Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
  • Temperature: 75.0 to 78.0° F (23.9 to 25.6° C)
  • Range ph: 8.0-9.0
  • Hardness Range: 8 - 12 dGH
  • Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
  • Water Movement: Moderate
  • Water Region: Middle - These fish will swim in the middle and bottom areas of the aquarium.

    This cichlid is aggressive and is not considered to be a community fish. They can be housed with other Mbunas as long as their size and coloring is different. They can be temperamental, aggressive and very territorial especially when spawning or protecting a breeding site. They are not aggressive toward females of other species, but may chase after the males.

    The Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" needs be be grouped with one male and at least 5 or more females since the males are very very rough on them. Provide lots of hiding places so the females can can get a break. You may decide, after spawning, to take the female out so she can heal and hatch her babies in peace.

  • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
  • Compatible with:
    • Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They can be kept in groups of 1 male with 5 or more females. They are very aggressive towards females, especially when in breeding mode, so the females must have plenty of hiding places.
    • Peaceful fish (): Threat
    • Semi-Aggressive (): Safe - They can be housed with other Mbunas as long as their size and coloring is different.
    • Aggressive (): Threat
    • Large Semi-Aggressive (): Threat
    • Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat
    • Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat
    • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive
    • Plants: Threat
 Sexual difference

   The males are mainly blue accented with yellow, are larger, and have yellow egg spots on the anal fin, the females are yellow.

 Breeding

   The Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" has been bred in captivity and is a mouthbrooder. Once the dominant male decides to breed, he will become severely aggressive and pummel his females. You need to have at least 5 females to spread out the aggression. Like other Mbunas the males coloring will change. He will shake and circle the female, moving her to a flat rock in his territory, then the breeding begins.

    The female will lay between 10 - 40 eggs, depending on her size. The female then immediately takes them into her mouth. The male will then flare out his anal fin which has an 'egg spot' patterning. The female mistakes the patterning for her own eggs and tries to take them in her mouth as well. This stimulates the male to discharge sperm (milt cloud) and the female inhales the cloud of 'milt', thus fertilizing the eggs. In 7 - 10 days at about 80 - 82° F the eggs hatch. The fry are free swimming in another 10 to 17 days.

    Tropheops Sp. "Red Cheek" females are very good mothers and may protect the fry in her mouth for another 10 days after the fry are free swimming. These fry are a little bigger than other Mbuna fry and are a silvery color at first. Their coloring will be visible in 3 weeks. They can eat daphnia and crushed flake. They will eat voraciously so keep the water clean.



 Credit :

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/TropheopsRedCheek.php

 http://www.riftlakes.com/cichlids/tropheops_sp_red_cheek_e.html



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วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 1 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2557

Fish Data : Red Zebra Cichlid


Orange Zebra


    The Red Zebra Maylandia estherae (previously Pseudotropheus estherae) is a very beautiful and desirable cichlid. The coloring of both the male and the female is very appealing, almost looking like two separate species. In the wild adult males are light blue, while females can range between a brownish beige to an orange-red and lack the broad vertical barring. These are also one of only a handful of Mbuna species that produce blotched color mutations.


   This is a zebra-type cichlid that belongs to a group called Mbunas. There are 13 genera full of very active and aggressive personalities of Mbuna cichlids. The name Mbuna comes from the Tonga people of Malawi and means "rockfish" or "rock-dwelling". This name aptly describes the environment these fish live in as opposed to being open water swimmers like the Utaka cichlids and other "haps".
This cichlid has a history of ups and downs in both identity and popularity. It was originally considered to be a variety of the Zebra CichlidPseudotropheus zebra. It was known as the Orange Blue Mouth Breeder and described as Pseudotropheus spec. aff. zebra. Finally it was described as its own species, Pseudotropheus estherae, by Konings in 1995. Recent revisions in thePseudotropheus genus caused a new surge of identity crisis. All the Zebra-type cichlids were moved to their own genera and both Maylandia estherae and Metriaclima estherae were recognized for this cichlid. Now however, the Red Zebra is considered valid as Maylandia estherae and is also called Esther Grant's Zebra.
When first introduced to the hobby this was a very popular Mbuna, and then it fell out of favor a bit. But today it has regained its status as one of the "most popular" African Cichlids. Most captive bred specimens available in the hobby were originally line bred for specific color traits in Florida fish farms. This resulted in orange males and a variety of other unusual color patterns.
There are many captive strains available. These include males of a "red-blue" strain that are a light blue with faint vertical barring. Males of a "red-red" strain can be a orange/red coloring with no vertical bars, and there is also an albino strain. Females can be yellow, orange, or orange with dark mottling. Common names are derived from their color patterns and popular varieties include the Cherry Red Zebra and the more recently developed Super Red Zebra.
This is a great fish for both the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. It is only a moderately aggressive cichlid compared to other Mbuna, but is still not a community tank specimen, It cannot be kept with fish other than cichlids. This species easily adapts to prepared foods, is very easy to breed, and the juveniles are very easy to raise as well.


    Like other Mbuna, they are commonly found near sediment free rocky areas where they feed on aufwuchs. Aufwuchs refers to tough stringy algae that is attached to rocks. "Loose" aufwuchs can contain insect larvae, nymphs, crustaceans, snails, mites and zooplankton.

    In nature they will reach up to almost 4 inched (10 cm) in length. They are sometimes larger in the home aquarium with males reaching up to to almost 5 inches (12.5 cm). They can live up to around 10 years with proper care.

    The coloration is completely different between males and females. In the wild adult males are light blue with dark vertical bands, and have 4-7 egg spots on the anal fin. Females can range between a brownish beige to an orange-re, they lack the broad vertical barring and can have from none up to three egg spots on the anal fin. These are also one of only a handful of Mbuna species that produce blotched color mutations. In the hobby there are several color morphs available for both males and females.


Feeding :

    These fish are omnivore ,In the aquarium they need mainly herbivorous foods because even though they eat a little protein in the wild, the majority of their diet is vegetable matter. They will accept anything, but to keep their colors strong, feed New Life Spectrum, Cyclops, Spirulina, or any other high quality herbivorous cichlid flake or small pellet. Mysis and brine shrimp occasionally is okay.
They will easily become overweight, so be careful to not over feed. The algae growing in the tank is something they eat, so supplementing that natural food is less costly than for a carnivorous cichlid. It is always better to feed them small amounts several times a day instead of one large feeding. This keeps the water quality higher for a longer period of time. Of course, all fish benefit from added vitamins and supplements to their foods. Too muchprotein and fat leads to Malawi Bloat, which is fatal.

  • Diet Type: Omnivore
  • Flake Food: Yes
  • Tablet Pellet: Yes
  • Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
  • Vegetable Food: Most of Diet
  • Meaty Food: Some of Diet
  • Feeding Frequency: Daily - Offer several small feedings a day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.


Setup Tank :

   The streams that flow into Lake Malawi have a high mineral content. This along with evaporation has resulted in alkaline water that is highly mineralized. Lake Malawi is known for its clarity and stability as far as pH and other water chemistries. It is easy to see why it is important to watch tank parameters with all Lake Malawi fish.

    Rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water but are not found in brackish waters. Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

    You should be use some of  55 gallon tank with a minimum of 48" (122 cm) in length is suggested, though a larger tank would be required if mixing Mbuna cichlids. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration.  A substrate of crushed coral or sand used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up. Gravel is acceptable as well. Crushed coral or aragonite sands also tend to dissolves easier than salts. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish.

    The Red Zebra needs a lot of rock work for shelter and territories. Some open space is appreciated as well. Provide lots of passageways and caves formed with piles of rocks. This will lessen aggression and give everyone a place to call their own. They like to dig so make sure the rocks sit on the bottom of the aquarium not on the substrate.

  • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gal (208 L) - A 55 gallons tank is suggested with a minimum length of 48" (122 cm) is suggested, and a larger tank is needed for a mixed group of Mbunas.
  • Suitable for Nano Tank: No
  • Substrate Type: Any
  • Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
  • Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C)
  • Range ph: 7.7-8.6
  • Hardness Range: 6 - 10 dGH
  • Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
  • Water Movement: Moderate
  • Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

Tank Mate :

    The Red Zebra is not considered to be a community fish. They are best kept in groups of one male and two or three females. If overstocking is used as a form of aggression reduction, care should be taken to do several partial water changes a week. They can be kept with other less aggressive Mbuna cichlids from Malawi that are not similar in coloring/shape

    They are a little mellower than other Mbuna, and can be kept with some other cichlids that are not overly aggressive. Do not house with Haplochromis, as the Red Zebra, like other Mbunas, are too aggressive towards them. Do not put with other Mbuna of similar shape and size, as they will attack and/or interbreed, which is not suggested.
  • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
  • Compatible with:
    • Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They are best kept in groups of 1 male with 2 or 3 females. They will not tolerate any other male of their same species nor any similarly colored males of other species.
    • Peaceful fish (): Threat
    • Semi-Aggressive (): Safe
    • Aggressive (): Threat
    • Large Semi-Aggressive (): Threat
    • Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat
    • Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat
    • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive
    • Plants: Threat

Breeding :

   The Red Zebra has been bred in captivity. Sexual maturity is reached at 3 inches. Obtain 7 young fry if the color morph you want is not apparent at a young age.

   Feed 2 times a day to condition them to breed. They like a flat tone or slate to lay the eggs in the male's territory. If your Red Zebras will not spawn, then that usually means there is a very aggressive fish in the tank. Removing that aggressive fish will prompt a more relaxed atmosphere and encourage spawning.

   The female will lay about 20 to 30 eggs then then immediately take them into their mouths before they are fertilized. The male flares out his anal fin, which has "egg spot patterning" so the female mistaken the eggs spots on the male's anal fin as her own eggs and tries to take them in her mouth as well. In doing so, she then stimulates the male to discharge sperm (milt cloud) and inhales of cloud of "milt" which then fertilize the eggs in her mouth.

   In 14 to 21 days at about 82 F, the eggs are developed. The released fry can eat finely powdered dry foods and brine shrimp nauplii. The female will guard her young. As long as you have plenty of hiding places, your young will have a easier time surviving until they are too big to eat.
The "red-blue" strained fry are born the same color as the female, and males start to develop a blue coloring over their body and fins at 2.5". The "red-red" males are born dark brown with the females being pale pink.


Credits : 

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/RedZebra.php

http://www.pbase.com/minoltaman/image/15599810


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Fish Data : Pseudotropheus Ice Blue Cichlid



Other name : Ice Blue Zebra Cichlid

The Pseudotropheus Ice Blue Maylandia greshakei, also known as William's Mbuna, is a pretty zebra-type cichlid from Lake Malawi, Africa. It has a very appealing coloration of an ice blue body contrasted with a bright orange top fin. It makes a great fish to add variety in a Mbuna cichlid Tank.


   It was first described by Meyer and Foerster in 1984 as Pseudotropheus greshakei and then several other common names evolved. This cichlid may be found as William's Mbuna, Ice Blue Zebra Cichlid, Red Top Ice Blue Zebra, Red Top Cobalt, Ice Blue Malawi, Ice Blue Cichlid, Ice Blue Red Top Zebra, Pseudotropheus sp. "Makokola", and Greshakei Zebra.

   This fish is zebra-type member of a group of cichlids called Mbunas. There are 13 genera full of very active and aggressive personalities of Mbuna cichlids. The name Mbuna comes from the Tonga people of Malawi and means "rockfish" or "rock-dwelling". This name aptly describes the environment these fish live in as opposed to being open water swimmers like the Utaka cichlids and other "haps".
In more recent taxonomical revisions the Pseudotropheus genus has been split into three sub-genera with this fish being placed in the sub-genus Pseudotropheus Maylandia. After much debate between the naming of this sub-genera Maylandia or Metriaclima, this species is currently considered valid as Maylandia greshakei. Yet in the aftermath there are still three scientific names commonly used for this fish in the hobby, including Pseudotropheus greshakeiMaylandia greshakei, and Metriaclima greshakei.

    This cichlid is also sometimes mistaken for its very close relative, the Pseudotropheus "Red Top Zebra Mbenji", which is not yet scientifically described. These two fish have very similar physical and behavioral traits, however the Pseudotropheus Ice Blue has only been found in the southeastern arm of Lake Malawi near Makokola, while the other is from the Mbenji Islands.
The Pseudotropheus Ice Blue is only moderately aggressive compared to other Mbuna. It is not a community tank specimen to be kept with fish other than cichlids, but it can be kept in a tank with similarly tempered Mbunas. Do not house with fish of the same color and shape though, as the male will look at these others as trespassers and attack them.
For the aquarists who is willing to do frequent water changes and provide appropriate tank mates, the Pseudotropheus Ice Blue is easy to care for. It will quickly adapt to prepared foods and is readily bred if not kept with overly aggressive tank mates. To house one male and two to three females, a minimum sized tank of 48" long with a lot of hiding places is needed for success. A much larger tank is needed for mixing Mbunas. Males will be solitary defending a territory while females, juveniles, and non-breeding males will be seen singly or in small groups.

    They enjoy depths of around 49 - 115 feet(15 - 35 m) and are commonly found near rocky areas of the reefs where the rocks have a layer of sediment on them. Males are territorial, protecting caves between the rocks and feeds on the biocover of the rocks known as Aufwuchs. Aufwuchs refers to tough stringy algae that is attached to rocks. "Loose" aufwuchs can contain insect larvae, nymphs, crustaceans, snails, mites and zooplankton. Females and non-breeding males will occur singly or in groups in the open water where they feed on phytoplankton.

    The males are more colorful than the females. Males have an overall ice blue color with very faded vertical bars on the body. The dorsal fin and the top half of the tail fin are orange and there are several egg spots on their anal fin. This coloring makes them easy to identify. Females are a drab color of brown-gray, with slightly more obvious vertical bars. Sometimes the females can be a pink coloring with a hint of the blue on their sides.

  • Size of fish - inches: 4.7 inches (11.99 cm) - They attain a length of about 4 3/4" (12 cm) in the wild, but can grow larger in the aquarium reaching up to 5.28" (13.4 cm).
  • Lifespan:  about 10 years under good conditions
  • Diet Type: Omnivore
  • Flake Food: Yes
  • Tablet Pellet: Yes
  • Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
  • Vegetable Food: Most of Diet
  • Meaty Food: Some of Diet
  • Feeding Frequency: Daily - Offer several small feedings a day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.

Setup Tank :

    A 55 gallon tank with a minimum of 48" (122 cm) in length is suggested, though a larger tank would be required if keeping a mixed cichlid tank. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Sand is the preferred substrate, but some aquarists have also used crushed coral or a mix of gravel and crushed coral. A substrate of crushed coral or sand used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up. They also tend to dissolves easier than salts.  A very slow acclimation to different pH levels can sometimes be achieved. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish.

   This cichlid needs lots of passageways and caves formed with piles of rocks. This will lessen aggression and give everyone a place to call their own. Arranging the rocks in a manner to make "territories" will help ease aggression. Some open space is appreciated as well. They like to dig so make sure the rocks sit on the bottom of the aquarium not on the substrate.

Breeding :

   The Pseudotropheus Ice Blue has been bred in captivity. Obtain six to eight young fry and once mature, feed two times a day to condition them to breed. If they will not spawn, then that usually means there is a very aggressive fish in the tank. Removing that aggressive fish will prompt a more relaxed atmosphere and encourage spawning.

   The male will dig a pit down to the bottom of the glass. He will then chase the females around shaking and extending his fins, showing exaggerated colors to attract them. He does not single out a female and rough her up, but waits until a female becomes gravid with eggs and willingly follows him to the pit. They will swim in a tight circle and the female will then deposit her eggs at a rate of one or two at a time and then picks them up in their mouth. The male will lay at an angle exposing the egg spots on his anal fin. The female, seeing the "eggs" will think she forgot a few and will try to pick them up. The male then releases milt which is taken into the mouth of the female, fertilizing the eggs. The female continues this routine until her mouth is full of fertilized eggs. This is one of the safest ways for a fish to spawn. It keeps the eggs safe from predation, which in Lake Malawi is brutal.

   Do not interrupt or feed the tank at this time as that will disturb their spawning. Once the egg sac of the fry has been absorbed, you may feed them food for fry fish. 

Social Behaviors :
The Pseudotropheus Ice Blue is only a moderately aggressive cichlid, but is not considered to be a community fish. They can be kept with other less aggressive, similarly tempered cichlids from Malawi. But do not put them with other Mbuna of similar shape and size as they will attack them and/or interbreed, which is not suggested. Do not house with Haplochromis as this cichlid, like other Mbunas, are too aggressive towards them. Also do not house with fish that eat mammal meat, as this is dangerous for your Mbuna to eat.
They are best kept in a group of one male with two or three females. They will not tolerate other males of the same color, and especially no males that are the same species. They are not particularly hard on their females like some cichlids are, which adds to the joy of owning this pretty little fish.

  • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
  • Compatible with:
    • Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They are best kept in groups of 1 male with 2 or 3 females. They will not tolerate any other male of their same species nor any similarly colored males of other species.
    • Peaceful fish (): Threat
    • Semi-Aggressive (): Safe
    • Aggressive (): Threat
    • Large Semi-Aggressive (): Threat
    • Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat
    • Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat
    • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive
    • Plants: Threat

Credits : 

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/PseudotropheusIceBlue.php

http://www.fotokritik.com/2802342/ice-blue-williams-mbuna


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