Fish Data : Frontosa Cichlid

The Frontosa Cichlid Cyphotilapia frontosa (originally Paratilapia frontosa) is a very handsome fish and held in the highest regard by cichlid keepers. With its large size and very pronounced coloration it immediately draws attention and dominates an aquarium display. Some can reach a length of up to 14 inches (35 cm) or more. They have rich bold pattern of 6 or 7 broad black bands on a white or blue background, sometimes with nice gold accents in the dorsal fin. This is truly a regal beauty and an awesome fish for a large show aquarium.

This species is also commonly known as the Humphead Cichlid. Both the male and female have the same attractive coloration and will develop a cranial hump, the large knob on its head, but that is not seen in juveniles. A mature male will become larger in size and develop longer fins, but these fish are challenging to sex as they are slow to grow. It can take three to four years before they reach breeding age.

These cichlids are deep water fish that come from Lake Tanganyika, Africa. Rather than being cave dwellers like many rock dwelling rift lake cichlids, they live in large colonies along the sloping lake bottom. They are found in many locations around the lake but are always at depths anywhere from 35 to 170 feet (10.7 - 50 m) or more. This makes them a difficult fish to collect, which made them quite rare and expensive for many years. Now however many are bred in captivity, so they are readily available and at a modest cost.

There are several different color variants, depending on the region of the lake they come from. Localities with distinctive varieties include Kigoma, Bulu Point, Mpimbwe, Samazi, Kasanga, Chaitika, Kapampa, Kavala, and Zaire. The most regularly seen variety is the Burundi Six-stripe Frontosa. It has a high body, nice banding, and a good amount of blue. Due to long time captive breeding this variety is the most readily available. However the most colorful variety is the Zaire Blue Frontosa. It has the most blue, sometimes looking almost purple. Due to the difficulties in collection not all of these variants are exported, and some are only infrequently exported.

This genus was once thought to be monotypic with just one species. However as recently as 2003, the Southern Frontosa or Blue Frontosa Cyphotilapia gibberosa was identified and described as its own species. The Cyphotilapiagenus is still under investigation, so some of the other variants may eventually turn out to be their own species as well.

Frontosa Cichlids are moderate to easy to care for, but they do need a good sized tank and regular maintenance. They make a great fish for intermediate and experienced aquarists. They are not overly aggressive and are quite gregarious, so they can be kept in a community environment. A minimum group needs to be at least one male with three females, but they are best kept in groups of 8 to 12 individuals in a very large aquarium with plenty of swimming space. A single fish could be kept a tank that is at least 48" in length and about 70 gallons, but as a group they need a minimum of 125 gallons or more. A 200 gallon aquarium is recommended for long term care. Provide a sandy bottom and some rock structures creating fissures for them to hide in. Though plants are not essential, they do not burrow and will not harm them.

This cichlid is a gently tolerant community fish and doesn't look for trouble, but it will defend a territory once it has established one. Even though they are quite peaceful beware of keeping smaller fish in your aquarium. The Frontosa will stealthily snatch up a small fishy snack if it is available. Ironically they themselves are a snack in their native lands, where they are considered a delicacy.

The Frontosa Cichlid Cyphotilapia frontosa (originally Paratilapia frontosa) was described by Boulenger in 1906, They are endemicto Lake Tanganyika, Africa. This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). Although it is endemic to Lake Malawi, it is widespread throughout the lake and has no recognized threats at present.

At one time this genus was thought to be monotypic, with a number of regional variants. But there has been considerable taxonomic revision and here are now at least 2 species and several more nominal species under investigation. The Southern Frontosa or Blue Frontosa Cyphotilapia gibberosa was identified and described as its own species by Takahashi and Nakaya as recently as 2003.

The Cyphotilapia genus, previously included in the Tropheini tribe, was recently moved to the Cyphotilapiini tribe as they are very distinct in both habitat and diet. The Tropheini tribe are primarily herbivorous and bound to shallow waters. But these are deep water cichlids inhabiting waters as deep as 350 feet (107 m) and their diet consists of fish. The Cyphotilapiini tribe contains only this one small genus. They are found throughout Lake Tanganyika, but with Cyphotilapia frontosa being roughly confined to the northern half of the lake and Cyphotilapia gibberosa being roughly confined to the southern half. They are maternal mouthbrooders.

Another common name they are known by is Humphead Cichlid. Geographic variants are named for the region of the lake they come from and/or their coloring. Some of these include the Burundi Six-stripe Frontosa, Zaire Blue Frontosa, Tanzanian Six-stripe Frontosa, Tanzanian Seven-stripe Frontosa, Zambian Blue Frontosa or Blue Face Frontosa, Kipili Frontosa, Samazi Frontosa, Kigoma Frontosa or Seven Bar Frontosa, and the Kavalla Frontosa.

These cichlids live off shore on the sloping lake bottom. They live in groups at depths of 35 to 170 feet (10.7 - 50 m) or more, with some authors saying they can be as deep as 350 feet (107 m). They dwell among the rocks feeding on fish, snails, and mussels.

The Frontosa Cichlid is a heavy bodied fish with large rounded heads and a wide underslung mouth. In the aquarium males reach up to about 12 inches (30 cm) in length, with females usually being smaller, reaching about 10 inches (25.4 cm). In the wild they attain lengths of about 14 inches (35 cm), with some resources saying they can reach up to 16 inches (40.6 cm). Both the male and the female will develop the cranial hump on the forehead but the male hump may be larger and more pronounced. The nuchal hump is absent on juveniles. This fish may live 25 years or more with proper care.

This cichlid has six or seven broad black stripes on a white background. The fins are white or light blue in color. Variations of this fish found in the more southern parts of Lake Tanganyika were described by Takahashi and Nakaya in 2003 as Cyphotilapia gibberosa. This group is accepted as a new species in the scientific community. They are very similar to the Frontosa Cichlid Cyphotilapia frontosa, but all are noted for having six dark stripes rather than seven. However there is one variant of the original Frontosa Cichlid from the northern area that also has six stripes.

*  Burundi Six-stripe Frontosa
This variety has a very high body and a large nuchal hump. It has nice banding and although they are not the variety with the most blue, they do have good amount. Inbreeding has resulted in specimens that don't have the high bodies.

• Zaire Blue Frontosa
  This variety is named for the earlier name of the Congo Republic, which was Zaire. This group is has the most blue body, with some even appearing purple, and the band on the head runs between the eyes and down the gill plate. Variations can be solid blue or not, and some will have blue dots on some of the bands.
   
• Tanzanian Six-stripe Frontosa
  This variety is a fairly rare export to the United States. It looks the same as the Burundi Six-stripe and also has a large nuchal hump, but it the two are cross bred the offspring will result in slanted bands.
   
• Tanzanian Seven-stripe Frontosa or Frontosa "Kigoma"
  The Frontosa "Kigoma" is a highly sought after variety. It is readily distinguished by its seventh band that is more of a patch on its face than an actual band. It also has a large nuchal hump that is blue and the dorsal fin has gold accents.
   
• Kipili Frontosa
  The Kipili Frontosa "Tanzania" is variety that is very rarely exported. It has some blue, but not as much as other varieties.
   
• Zambian blue Frontosa, or Blue Face Frontosa
  This variety has has nice banding with some blue on the face. The band on the head fades just above the eye.
   
• Samazi Frontosa
  This variety has a high body, but varies in color between the male and female. The male has nice blues while the female has none or very little. They are also more difficult to breed.
   
• Kavalla Frontosa
  This variety is extremely rare. It has six nice bands and blue accents, but can turn dark with mood. Its dorsal fin is yellow, but with a sheen of multiple colors.

• Size of fish - inches: 13.8 inches (35.00 cm) - In nature they reach almost 14" (35 cm) in length (some resources say 16" = 40.6 cm). They are usually smaller in the aquarum with males at about 12" (30 cm) and females about 10" (25.4 cm).
• Lifespan: 25 years - With proper care this species may live 25 years or more.

Since they are carnivorous the Frontosa Cichlid will generally eat all kinds of live foods. In the wild they feed on fish and shellfish, such as snails and molluscs. In the aquarium it is a slow feeder and will eat pellets as well as a variety of meaty foods such as feeder fish, worms and crustaceans; ie. mysis, shrimp, and krill. Frozen foods such as brine shrimp is also considered as a good protein source.

It is suggested that you do not feed live feeders fish due to possible diseases and pathogens that may be transferred to your fish. All fish benefit from vitamins and supplements added to their foods. Feed 2 to 5 portions of food a day in smaller amounts, instead of a large quantity once a day. This keeps the water quality higher for a longer period of time.

• Diet Type: Carnivore
• Flake Food: No
• Tablet Pellet: Yes
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
• Meaty Food: All of Diet
• Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Offer several small feedings a day rather than a single large feeding for better water quality over time.

The Frontosa Cichlid is active and will swim in all areas of the aquarium. A minimum 70 gallon tank can house a single specimen, but these fish are gregarious and will really do best kept in groups of at least 4 individuals, with 8 to 12 being ideal. A minimum 125 gallon tank will be needed for a small group with a larger aquarium (200 gallons plus) being best for long term care. They need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration.

Lake Tanganyika is a very oxygen rich lake so bubblers need to be going day and night, even if there are plants. Regularly check nitrates and ph, nitrates should be no more than 25 ppm and a pH less than 7 is not tolerated. In addition keep an eye on total hardness and carbonate hardness. Avoid overfeeding and overstocking.

Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low fluctuation in temperature and pH. All Tanganyika cichlids need stable temperatures kept within acceptable limits and lots of oxygen to survive. Temperatures under 72° F and over 86° F for too long is not tolerated by many of these fish. When treating for ich, a few days at 86° F is acceptable. The lake is also consistently alkaline with a pH of around 9, and very hard at about 12 - 14° dGH. In the aquarium most Tanganyika cichlids are fairly adaptable as long as conditions are close to these ideal ranges. Most important is that their water chemistry doesn't change much over time. The water needs to be well buffered and maintained with small, regular water changes.

Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness.  Interestingly, Tanganyikan cichlids also need iodine for the thyroid to function properly to regulate growth and development, and which can be achieved by adding iodized table salt to the water. For freshwater an optional practice is to add 1 heaping teaspoon of salt per 11 gallons of water. This is considered to be a simple and natural remedy for wounds, minor fungal infections and film over the eyes of fish in transit. Using a marine salt (used for salt water fish) will add some trace elements.

An alternative buffering approach is to use a chemical filtration method, where they water passes through layers of crushed coral or coral sand. Although rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water they are not found in brackish waters. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

Provide a sandy or very small sized gravel substrate. Sand used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up as well as the addition of crushed coral. Crushed coral and aragonite sands do tend to dissolve easier than salts.  They need plenty of open swimming areas, but the males are also quite shy so need rocks and cave formations for retreat. Make sure all rocks are firm on the bottom as these fish are quite quick but clumsy if startled. Plants are not essential though they do not harm them, nor do they burrow.

• Minimum Tank Size: 70 gal (265 L) - A minimum 70 gallon tank that is at least 48" in length can house a single specimen. For a group a minimum 125 gallon tank is suggested, with 200 gallons or more being best for long term care.
• Suitable for Nano Tank: No
• Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix
• Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
• Temperature: 74.0 to 79.0° F (23.3 to 26.1° C)
• Breeding Temperature: 77.0° F - Breeding temperature ranges between 77 - 82.4° F (25 - 28 C).
• Range ph: 8.0-8.5
• Hardness Range: 12 - 15 dGH
• Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
• Water Movement: Moderate
• Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

They are fairly non-aggressive community fish. Although the male can be territorial, depending on the individual fish, they may show little tendency to do so. They are gregarious and don't like being alone. A group of one male with three or more females can be kept together or they can be kept in a group of 8 - 12 individuals.

They can be kept in a larger aquarium with other durable fish. But because of their less aggressive temperament, care must be taken that young fish are not seriously harassed in mixed species aquariums. More aggressive Lake Tanganyika or Malawi cichlids do not make good tankmates. Also if kept in a community type environment, the tank mates need to be a pretty good size in relation to the Frontosa Cichlid. This fish is a predator and will eat smaller fishes. Any fish smaller than about 3" may be at risk of being eaten by an adult.

• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Compatible with:
• Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They are gregarious and like companionship. Groups can consist of 1 male with 3 or more females, or a mixed group of 8 - 12 individuals.
• Peaceful fish (): Monitor - Fish smaller than about 3" may be at risk of being eaten by an adult.
• Semi-Aggressive (): Safe
• Aggressive (): Threat
• Large Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor
• Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat
• Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Monitor
• Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive
• Plants: Safe
• 
  
• The Frontosa has long been bred in captivity, though some varieties are easier to breed than others. They are egg layers that form matriarchal families. They are monogamous, where one male spawns with several females. You can buy a group of breeding Frontosa or a group can be obtained by starting with a group of 10 to 12 juveniles. As they grow start reducing the group by removing the largest fish. Do this every six months or so, as the larger fish will be male, until there are 4 - 5 females. A mature male will be about 7" in length, and a female will be about 5". It does take about 3 to 4 years for these fish to reach sexual maturity, and males mature more slowly than females, so this is a long process requiring much patience.
  The breeding process is fairly simple. The female is a mouth brooder that is a cave spawner in the wild. In the aquarium she prefers spawning on the substrate. The breeding aquarium needs to be large, 100 gallons or more, with rocks and flowerpots for the male to create a territory. The breeding tank should have moderately alkaline, medium hard water with to a pH of around 8, about 10° dGH, and a temperature between 77 - 82.4° F (25 - 28 C).
  Females deposit about 50 eggs, usually in a sand pit between the rocks, and males fertilizes them. The eggs hatch in about 3 days. The male is responsible for defending the territory while the female then takes the eggs into her mouth. She will care for the fry for between 4 to 6 weeks. The fry can be fed live baby brine shrimp

Credit :

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/frontosa.php

http://www.aquariumslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/frontosa1.jpg

http://www.fishtanksandponds.co.uk/profiles/cyphotilapia-frontosa.html

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Fish Data : Five Bar Cichlid

The Five-Bar Cichlid Neolamprologus tretocephalus is very handsome beauty. It has a dramatic color pattern with bold black bars contrasted against a light silvery blue background. The fins are highlighted with a gorgeous blue tinge along the edges, and adult males will sometimes have a purple tinge on the edge. It is known by a number of common names, with several that depict its bold appearance including Tret Cichlid, Tretocephalus Cichlid, Five Barred Lamprologus, Poor Mans Frontosa, Dwarf Frontosa, Five-Bar Lamprologus, and African Five Barred Cichlid.

This species has all the great colors of a Frontosa Cichlid Cyphotilapia frontosa, but is just a fraction of the size. In the wild it can grow up to almost 6 inches (15 cm) in length, but in the aquarium it more commonly reaches only about 4 inches (10 cm). Along with the Frontosa, another cichlid it is very similar to in appearance is its close relative the Sexfasciatus or Six-Bar Lamprologus Neolamprologus sexfasciatus.

Both of these other two cichlids have the strong barring and varying amounts of blue highlights, and as a juvenile the Five-Bar Cichlid looks almost like the same fish as the Frontosa. However there is a very simple difference that distinguishes this cichlid from the others. The Five-Bar Cichlid has just that, five bold dark bars on its body. The other two species will have six (or in some varieties seven) bold dark bars.

This fish is a great choice for both the intermediate and advanced cichlid keeper. It is moderately easy to care for as long as mandatory water changes are done (and difficult if they are neglected). Watching the antics of this bold little fish is a reward in itself. When a pair breeds they will take on the same protection duties of their fry as some of the American Cichlids, and viciously guard them. This is one of those cichlids with a tendency to leap our ot the water, so be sure to have a tight fitting lid.

They can be kept alone or in pairs, but are intolerant of any other Five-Bar Cichlid in the tank. As they will become extremely aggressive and will occupy a large territory when spawning and brooding, pairs are best kept in a species tank or with fish that can take the abuse they will dish out. They are not as aggressive when not spawning, so juveniles or as a single specimen may not cause a ruckus. In this situation they may be successfully kept with other smart and fast moving fish of similar size. Just make sure the tank is very large.

They like a sandy to very small sized substrate along with caves made from rocks and ceramic decor. It's best to put the decor towards that back and sides of the tank and leave open space in the middle for them to swim. They also enjoy plants in the background or middle ground. Highly porous rock works well for growing several fern species.

The Five-Bar Cichlid Neolamprologus tretocephalus was described by Boulenger in 1899. These fish are endemic to Lake Tanganyika, Africa and are found throughout the northern basin of the lake along a small section of coastline south of Mahale. It is a popular aquarium species and is now farmed commercially.

This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). Although it is endemic to Lake Malawi, it has a widespread distribution throughout the northern parts of the lake and has no recognized threats at present. Other common names this fish is known by include the Tret Cichlid, Tretocephalus Cichlid, Five Barred Lamprologus, Poor Mans Frontosa, Dwarf Frontosa, Five-Bar Lamprologus, and African Five Barred Cichlid

The Neolamprologus genus is the largest genus of cichlids in Lake Tanganyika, containing 50 or so species. The fish in this genus are all closely related but they are split between "shell dwellers" and "rock dwellers", yet all are substrate spawners. This genus is also the largest group in the tribe Lamprologini. The Lamprologini tribe contains seven genera and nearly 100 species of African Cichlids, most of which are found in Lake Tanganyika, though a few species are found in the the Congo River Basin and one species in the the Malagarasi River in Tanzania.

The Lamprologini cichlids are highly variable and are found in all kinds of habitats. They are found both at the surface and in very deep waters, but all species are substrate spawners. They have a body that cam be somewhat elongated to very elongated. Their colors tend to be brown, yellow, blue, black or a combination or all four. Black is usually a striping, either vertical or horizontal. Like other genus in the tribe, the Neolamprologus will readily mate with females of other Lamprologini.

They are found along rocky shore areas where they feed on mollusks such as snails, along with fishes. Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low fluctuation in pH and temperature.

These cichlids are rock dwellers found in waters at depths between 15 - 50 feet (4.5 - 15 m). They inhabit both rocky areas and intermediate zones where there is a sandy bottom and scattered rocks. They form territorial pairs and will breed and raise their young in caves, driving away any others of their same species. They have a specifically adapted pharyngeal bone that enables them to crush the shells of invertebrates. They will feed on small fish and aquatic insect larvae in the wild, but snails and bi-valves make up the bulk of their diet.

• Scientific Name: Neolamprologus tretocephalus
• Social Grouping: Pairs - Adults form territorial pairs.
• IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern

The Five-Bar Cichlid is a rather stocky elongated fish with a continuous dorsal fin. They have mouths designed for specialized feeding. Their pharyngeal bone is specifically adapted to crush invertebrates, which make up the bulk of their diet. They are relatively small in size reaching a length of only about 4 inches (10 cm) in the aquarium, though they can grow up to almost 6 inches (15 cm) in the wild. The Neolamprologus genus will generally live 8 - 10 years with proper care.

They have a very attractive coloration. The body is a light silvery blue to white with five bold black vertical bars. The first bar is behind the head and the last bar is at the base of the caudal fin. The fins are blue with the dorsal fin having just a shadow of the bars extending slightly onto it. The coloring is very close to the Frontosa Cichlid especially when young, thus earning the names "Dwarf Frontosa" and "Poor Mans Frontosa". It is also similar to the Sexfasciatus or Six-Bar Lamprologus, but the head is less pointed and it has a more slender and torpedo shaped body.

All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have and that is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.

Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.

• Size of fish - inches: 5.9 inches (15.01 cm) - The can grow to a length of almost 6" (15 cm), but more commonly reach just 4" (10 cm).
• Lifespan: 8 years - They have a lifespan of 8 to 10 years with proper care.

Though considered an omnivore, the Five-Bar Cichlids are primarily carnivorous, feeding on mollusks such as snails along with fishes in the wild. In the aquarium they can be fed flakes and sinking pellets as well as meaty foods, then small feeder fish and feeder snails when they grow larger. Live foods such as baby brine and an occasional garden worm are also fine. Occasionally supplement with their diet with some vegetable based foods as well.

Watch water quality. Feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. This will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. A one-day-a-week 'fast' can also be beneficial. Of course, all fish benefit from added vitamins and supplements to their foods.

• Diet Type: Omnivore - Although they are omivorous, in the wild they primarily feed on fish and mollusks such as snails.
• Flake Food: Yes
• Tablet Pellet: Yes
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
• Vegetable Food: Some of Diet
• Meaty Food: Most of Diet
• Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Offer several small feedings a day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.
• 
  

The  Five-Bar Cichlid will swim mostly in the middle and bottom areas of the aquarium. A minimum 40 gallon tank is suggested for a fish under 4". A larger tank that's 4 feet long and about 80 gallons will be needed for a breeding pair or when keeping a mixed tank. They need good water movement to provide lots of oxygenation along with very strong and efficient filtration.

Make sure to have a cover on the aquarium, as this is one species that tends to jump. Lake Tanganyika is a very oxygen rich lake so bubblers need to be going day and night, even if there are plants. Regularly check nitrates and ph, nitrates should be no more than 25 ppm and a pH less than 7 is not tolerated. In addition keep an eye on total hardness and carbonate hardness. Avoid overfeeding and overstocking.

Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low fluctuation in temperature and pH. All Tanganyika cichlids need stable temperatures kept within acceptable limits and lots of oxygen to survive. Temperatures under 72° F and over 86° F for too long is not tolerated by many of these fish. When treating for ich, a few days at 86° F is acceptable. The lake is also consistently alkaline with a pH of around 9, and very hard at about 12 - 14° dGH. In the aquarium most Tanganyika cichlids are fairly adaptable as long as conditions are close to these ideal ranges. Most important is that their water chemistry doesn't change much over time. The water needs to be well buffered and maintained with small, regular water changes.

Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. An alternative buffering approach is to use a chemical filtration method, where they water passes through layers of crushed coral or coral sand.  Interestingly, Tanganyikan cichlids also need iodine for the thyroid to function properly to regulate growth and development, and which can be achieved by adding iodized table salt to the water. Although rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water they are not found in brackish waters. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

Provide a sandy to very small sized gravel substrate. These fish will need a lot of rocks and cave formations for retreat and spawning. Although plants (other than algae) are pretty much absent in their natural environment, they are preferred by this species and can be arranged in a very pleasing manner. Plants that will grow on the porous rock include such species as Anubias, Java Fern. and Water Fern. It's best to have the decor placed more to the back and sides of the tank to provide an open area in the middle for swimming.

• Minimum Tank Size: 40 gal (151 L) - A minimum of 40 gallons is suggested for a fish under 4", and larger as the fish matures. For a breeding pair or when keeping a mixed tank, about 80 gallons and 4' in length will be needed.
• Suitable for Nano Tank: No
• Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix
• Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
• Temperature: 78.0 to 80.0° F (25.6 to 26.7° C)
• Breeding Temperature: 77.0° F - Best breeding temperature is 77° F (25 C) or slightly higher.
• Range ph: 8.6-9.5 - Some specimens will adjust to neutral water if it is done slowly.
• Hardness Range: 10 - 13 dGH
• Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
• Water Movement: Moderate
• Water Region: Middle - These fish will swim in the middle and bottom areas of the aquarium.

The Five-Bar Cichlid has been bred in captivity though it is considered to be rather difficult. These are substrate spawners that spawn in caves. They will form monogamous pairs and a nuclear family. Obtaining several juveniles and allowing a pair to form, then removing the others is the best way to get a pair.

A pair will spawn at about 4 to 6 week intervals. The breeding tank needs to be at least 4 feet long with piles rock. upside down clay flower pot (some break out the bottom), or other decor that creates caves for spawning sites. The water should have a temperature of 77° F (25 C) or slightly higher. They take over an area and the male will remove any rock or debris. The female enters and lays around 400 eggs on the surface, after which the male fertilizes them.

Once the eggs are fertilized it takes 2 to 3 days for them to hatch and 5 days for them to be free swimming. Once they are free swimming, the female will be surrounded by a cloud of hundreds of fry. The male at this point, becomes super aggressive and will expand his territory for his family. In about 3 weeks, remove most of the fry. The fry can be fed crushed flake and baby brine shrimp. Breeding a wild caught specimen with a captive bred specimen helps to keep the lines healthier. 

credit :

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/FiveBarCichlid.php


http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/img/Neolamprologus_tretocephalus_1.jpg

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Fish Data : Fairy Cichlid

The Fairy Cichlid Neolamprologus brichardi (previously Lamprologus brichardi) was one of the first African cichlids imported for the aquarium hobby. This is a hardy cichlid with an enchanting, wispy appearance. Its light creamy body is adorned with a lyre shaped tail and fins tipped in white with long flowing filaments. A school of these beautiful fish makes an elegant display for both the novice and long time cichlid keeper.

When first imported in the early 1970's it was originally called the 'Princess of Burundi'. Today it is more commonly known as the Fairy Cichlid, Brichardi Cichlid, and Lyretail Lamprologus. Other descriptive common names include Brichardi Lyretail Cichlid, Princess cichlid, and Brichard's Lamprologus.

The Fairy Cichlid is almost identical in appearance to its popular relative theDaffodil Cichlid Neolamprologus pulcher. However the Fairy Cichlid has bluish gray fins and can be identified by the black stripe running from the eye to the gill cover and a yellow spot just above it. These markings are absent in the Daffodil Cichlid though it has the two crescent shaped markings behind the eye, and its fins are yellowish.

This cichlid is moderately easy to care for as long it has the proper sized aquarium and the right tank mates. They it will adapt to a wide range of water conditions and will eat a wide variety of aquarium foods. This cichlid has a very pleasing coloration and is not shy about swimming out in the open. But they do like an aquarium with lots of rock formations creating caves for retreating. A sandy substrate is best because though they are not avid diggers, they may dig out spawning territories around decor. Plants are not essential but if you should include them they won't harm them.

With its color, form and adaptability, this cichlid is a great choice for both the beginner and advance aquarist. They are a schooling fish that pair off only to breed, so are actually best kept in a group. They are generally peaceful and non aggressive with their own kind. They are not inclined to quarrel with others except when spawning, and then are very territorial. They are best kept in a species tank, or a group of these fish can be kept in a good sized aquarium with other similar types of Lamprologine Shell-dwellers. Other good tankmates are a large school of Herring cichlids of the Cyprichromis genus like the Sardine Cichlid Cyprichromis leptosoma, as well as the Goby Cichlids,Julidochromis species, and Tropheus species.

Though these cichlids spend a good deal of their time spawning, they are a secretive shelter spawner. You may not even know they have spawned until you see small fry darting about. A pair will spawn again and again. The older fry will help protect the younger ones, thus various ages of fry will be present in the same tank. This is an example of "stepped breeding".

The Fairy Cichlid Neolamprologus brichardi (previouslyLamprologus brichardi) was described by Poll in 1974. These fish are endemic to Lake Tanganyika and are found in the northern part of the lake. The nominate form is found in Burundi with color morphs occurring at Tanzania. The species name brichardi was named in honor of Pierre Brichard who set up a collecting station for Tanganyikan cichlids in 1971.

This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). It is widespread throughout the northern part of Lake Tanganyika and has no recognized threats at present. Originally the Fairy Cichlid was known as the 'Princess of Burundi'. Other names they are known by today are the Fairy Cichlid, Brichardi Cichlid, Lyretail Lamprologus, Lyretail Cichlid, Brichardi Lyretail Cichlid, Princess cichlid, Princess of Burundi, Fairy cichlid, and Brichard's Lamprologus.

The Neolamprologus genus is the largest genus of cichlids in Lake Tanganyika, containing 50 or so species. The fish in this genus are all closely related but they are split between "shelldwellers" and "rockdwellers", yet all are substrate spawners. This genus is also the largest group in the tribe Lamprologini. The Lamprologini tribe contains seven genera and nearly 100 species of African Cichlids, most of which are found in Lake Tanganyika, though a few species are found in the the Congo River Basin and one species in the the Malagarasi River in Tanzania.

The Lamprologini cichlids are highly variable and are found in all kinds of habitats. They are found both at the surface and in very deep waters, but all species are substrate spawners. They have a body that cam be somewhat elongated to very elongated. Their colors tend to be brown, yellow, blue, black or a combination or all four. Black is usually a striping, either vertical or horizontal. Like other genus in the tribe, the Neolamprologus will readily mate with females of other Lamprologini.

A study published in 2007 in the journal Molecular Phylogenetics and Evolution suggested that the Fairy Cichlid and its very similar relative, the Daffodil Cichlid Neolamprologus pulcher, are a single species. This study, "Parallel evolution of facial stripe patterns in the Neolamprologus brichardi/pulcher species complex endemic to Lake Tanganyika", authored by Nina Duftner, K. M. Sefc, S. K. ller, W. Salzburgerf, M. Taborsky, C. Sturmbauer would have both species included as Neolamprologus pulcher, as that is the older of the two scientific names.

However it has not been confirmed that they are the same species. These two fish are never found occurring together in the wild, but rather in close vicinity to each other. Also the abundant hybridization between members of the Lamprologini tribe has seriously confounded molecular studies and DNA sequencing.

They inhabit rocky coastlines and swim in large schools that often consist of hundreds of fish. When breeding however, they will form monogamous pairs and spawn in caves. They are found in shallow waters at 10 feet (3 m) down to depths of 82 - 98 feet (25 - 30 m). Specimens from the deeper waters are protected from over-collection as they require special decompression care to bring the fish to the surface. These fish will feed from the biofilm on the rocky substrate, eating small crustaceans and invertebrates, as well as feeding on swarms of plankton in the water column.

• Scientific Name: Neolamprologus brichardi
• Social Grouping: Groups - They occur in schools, often consisting of hundreds of fish.
• IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern

They Fairy Cichlids are omnivorous and in the wild it feeds on small crustaceans and invertebrates found in the biofilm of the rocky substrate as well as swarms of plankton drifting in the lake water. In the aquarium it will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake foods. To keep a good balance give them a high quality flake food or pellet everyday. Regularly supplement these foods with brine shrimp (either live or frozen) or daphnia.

Feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. This will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. A one-day-a-week 'fast' can also be beneficial. Of course, all fish benefit from added vitamins and supplements to their foods.

• Diet Type: Omnivore
• Flake Food: Yes
• Tablet Pellet: Yes
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
• Vegetable Food: Some of Diet
• Meaty Food: Some of Diet
• Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Offer several small feedings a day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.
• 
  

The Fairy Cichlid is active and will swim in all areas of the aquarium. For a species only tank, a minimum of 15 gallons is suggested, though 20 or 35 gallons is better. A larger tank of 50 gallons or more would be required if mixing with other species. They need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Lake Tanganyika is a very oxygen rich lake so bubblers need to be going day and night, even if there are plants. Regularly check nitrates and ph, nitrates should be no more than 25 ppm and a pH less than 7 is not tolerated. In addition keep an eye on total hardness and carbonate hardness. Avoid overfeeding and overstocking.

Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low fluctuation in temperature and pH. All Tanganyika cichlids need stable temperatures kept within acceptable limits and lots of oxygen to survive. Temperatures under 72° F and over 86° F for too long is not tolerated by many of these fish. When treating for ich, a few days at 86° F is acceptable. The lake is also consistently alkaline with a pH of around 9, and very hard at about 12 - 14° dGH. In the aquarium most Tanganyika cichlids are fairly adaptable as long as conditions are close to these ideal ranges. Most important is that their water chemistry doesn't change much over time. The water needs to be well buffered and maintained with small, regular water changes.

Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. An alternative buffering approach is to use a chemical filtration method, where they water passes through layers of crushed coral or coral sand.  Interestingly, Tanganyikan cichlids also need iodine for the thyroid to function properly to regulate growth and development, and which can be achieved by adding iodized table salt to the water. Although rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water they are not found in brackish waters. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

They need a lot of rocks piled up to create cave formations. Provide a sandy to very small sized  gravel substrate. Sand used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up as well as the addition of crushed coral. Crushed coral and aragonite sands do tend to dissolve easier than salts. Plants are not essential though they do not harm them. They don't tend to burrow unless they are digging out a spawning sight around the decor. Subdued lighting is also preferred.

• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gal (57 L) - A minimum of 15 gallons is the suggested for a species tank, with 20 or 35 gallons being better, and 50 gallons or more is needed for mixing species.
• Suitable for Nano Tank: Sometimes - A larger nano tank of 15 gallons or more, can be used for a species only aquarium.
• Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix
• Lighting Needs: Low - subdued lighting
• Temperature: 72.0 to 77.0° F (22.2 to 25.0° C)
• Breeding Temperature: 77.0° F - Breeding temperatures are between 77 - 86° F (25 - 30 C).
• Range ph: 8.0-8.5 - A pH less than 7 is not tolerated, and wild caught specimens prefer the higher pH.
• Hardness Range: 10 - 20 dGH
• Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
• Water Movement: Moderate
• Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

The Fairy Cichlid is a fairly non-aggressive community fish. They can be kept in a smaller species only tank or in a larger aquarium with other durable fish. However they are avid spawners and breeding pairs will establish a territory and defended it together. This fish is also very protective in defending their fry.

If kept in a community type environment it is best to introduce the Fairy Cichlid last. The tank mates need to be larger with their own established territories. Avoid housing them with the African cichlids from Lake Malawi or Lake Victoria. They may tolerate their own genus, but this is not suggested since hybrids can be formed. In the wild it has been seen cohabiting with the White-Tailed Brichardi Neolamprologus gracilis.

Some cichlids they can be kept with are some of the Altolamprologus genera such as the White Pearly Calvus and the Compressed Cichlid, and the Julidochromis genera such as Mariner's Julie and the Convict Julie. Other good tankmates are a large school of Herring cichlids of the Cyprichromis genus like the Sardine Cichlid Cyprichromis leptosoma, as well as the Goby Cichlids, Julidochromis species, and Tropheus species.

• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Compatible with:
• Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They can be kept singly, in pairs, or in small groups of 6 or more.
• Peaceful fish (): Threat
• Semi-Aggressive (): Safe
• Aggressive (): Threat
• Large Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor
• Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat
• Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat
• Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive
• Plants: Safe

The Fairy Cichlids have been bred in captivity and are easy to breed. They are egg layers and form nuclear families. Considered a monogamous cichlid, they will pair up only during spawning and will school otherwise. They will often breed in a community tank. They reach sexual maturity and will start to spawn when they reach 2 inches (5 cm) in length. It is suggested to start with a group of at least 6 individuals and let them pair up. Condition them with a good varied diet.

The breeding tank should be at least 36 inches (91 cm) long, or bigger if you have a larger group to provide sufficient territories among rocks or inverted flowerpots. The breeding tank should have neutral, medium hard to hard water with to a pH of around 7.5 - 8.5, 10 - 20° dGH, and a temperature between 77 - 86° F (25 - 30 C). The female prefers spawning in caves or sometimes in areas with rocky rubble where they will dig a spawning site next to the decor.

In her first spawn the female typically lay only a few eggs, but as she matures she will lay over 100 eggs, even up to 200. The eggs will be deposited on the wall or roof of the spawning site. The female will tend to the eggs and the male will guards the spawn site. The eggs will hatch in 2-3 days and the fry will become free swimming in 7 days. The fry can be fed newly hatch brine shrimp. They fry are slow growing, but both the parents and older juveniles will care for the young. 

credit :

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/brichardi.php

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Fish Data : Dickfeld's Julie cichlid

The Dickfeld's Julie Julidochromis dickfeldi is the most recently discovered of the three dwarf Julies, described by Staeck in 1975. This dwarf Julie only grows to a length of 4 1/3 inches (11 cm). However it is not quite the smallest, its relative the Masked Julie Julidochromis transcriptus is the dwarf cichlid with that distinction at about 3 inches (7.62 cm) in length. The Golden Julie Julidochromis ornatus is also smaller, reaching just over 3 inches (8 cm), and has the distinction of being the first of the Julies to be bred in captivity. Like these others, the small size of this cichlid does make it easy to house in tight quarters and a 20 gallon tank is perfect for keeping a pair.

This dwarf Julie was first introduced in America in 1974 under the enticing designation of "Blue Julie". It differs in its coloring from the other Julies with a body that can be silver, light brownish gold, or have a blue sheen. Thus Brown Julie is another common name for it as well. The markings on its head are another distinction. The three dark horizontal stripes on each side extend onto to the head with the lowest one literally wrapping completely around its face. Besides differing in color, its body shape is also a bit different. It has a larger dorsal fin towards the front end and a more pointed snout. These fish are also commonly named for color or locality such as Julidochromis dickfeldi "Ndole", Julidochromis dickfeldi "Moliro", Julidochromis dickfeldi "Midnight", Julidochromis dickfeldi "Midnight Blue", and Julidochromis dickfeldi "White top", to name a few.

They are moderate to easy to care for as long as small weekly water changes are done to keep the water at optimal levels. With their small size and hardy nature, they make a great fish for the beginning cichlid keeper. Provide them with a sandy or fine gravel substrate along with lots of rock formations. It is somewhat shy. It will stay in the rocks more towards the back of the aquarium, darting out to retrieve food. Plants can also be included as they will not bother them. This fish will breed in captivity and the plants will provide cover for the newly hatch fry.

In a community cichlid tank the Dickfeld's Julie can be kept singly or in pairs, but will not tolerate other Julies. They can be kept with other Tanganyika cichlids that are similar size. They will a define a territory by selecting a crack or rock fissure as its center, and then will stay very close to the rock structures of their defined territory. This fish will breed in captivity, and it is important to keep the different strains separate to help prevent hybrids.

The Dickfeld's Julie is an omnivore. In the wild they will eat drifting matter in the water, but mostly feed on crustaceans they pick from the rocks. In the aquarium to keep a good balance give them a high quality flake food or pellet everyday. Regularly supplement these with Cyclops, water fleas, brine and mysis shrimps, or other special foods for Lake Tanganyika cichlids.

Feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. This will help to keep the best water quality. All fish also benefit from vitamins and supplements added to their foods.

• Diet Type: Omnivore
• Flake Food: Yes
• Tablet Pellet: Occasionally
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
• Vegetable Food: Some of Diet
• Meaty Food: Most of Diet
• Feeding Frequency: Daily - Offer several small feedings a day rather than a single large feeding for better water quality over time.

The Dickfeld's Julie is active cichlid and will swim in the bottom areas of the aquarium. A minimum 20 gallon tank for a pair is suggested. Provide 75 gallons or more for a community type tank. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Lake Tanganyika is a very oxygen rich lake so bubblers need to be going day and night, even if there are plants. Regularly check nitrates and ph, nitrates should be no more than 25 ppm and a pH less than 7 is not tolerated. In addition keep an eye on total hardness and carbonate hardness. Avoid overfeeding and overstocking.

Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low fluctuation in temperature and pH. All Tanganyika cichlids need stable temperatures kept within acceptable limits and lots of oxygen to survive. Temperatures under 72° F and over 86° F for too long is not tolerated by many of these fish. When treating for ich, a few days at 86° F is acceptable. The lake is also consistently alkaline with a pH of around 9, and very hard at about 12 - 14° dGH. In the aquarium most Tanganyika cichlids are fairly adaptable as long as conditions are close to these ideal ranges. Most important is that their water chemistry doesn't change much over time. The water needs to be well buffered and maintained with small, regular water changes.

Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. An alternative buffering approach is to use a chemical filtration method, where the water passes through layers of crushed coral or coral sand.  Interestingly, Tanganyikan cichlids also need iodine for the thyroid to function properly to regulate growth and development, and which can be achieved by adding iodized table salt to the water. Although rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water they are not found in brackish waters. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

They need plenty of cover and places of retreat. Provide lots of porous rocks and/or clay pots and clay pot pieces forming caves and crevices. They will a define a territory with a crack or rock fissure as the center of their territory, and will stay very close to the rock structures of their defined territory. Provide them with a sandy or fine gravel substrate. Plants can also be included as they will not bother them.

• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gal (76 L) - A minimum of 20 gallons is suggested for a pair, with 75 gallons or more for a community type tank.
• Suitable for Nano Tank: Yes - A 20 gallon Nano tank can house a single specimen or a pair.
• Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix
• Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
• Temperature: 73.0 to 80.0° F (22.8 to 26.7° C)
• Breeding Temperature: 77.0° F - Breeding temperatures range between 77 - 80.6° F (25 - 27 C).
• Range ph: 8.5-9.2
• Hardness Range: 8 - 12 dGH
• Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
• Water Movement: Moderate
• Water Region: Bottom - These fish will swim in the bottom areas of the aquarium.

The Dickfeld's Julies are egg layers that will form monogamous pairs and a nuclear family. They are sheltered substrate spawner and prefer spawning in caves. This fish has been bred in captivity but they are not ready to breed until they are a year old. Young couples need practice to become successful parents.

Buy 6 to 10 juveniles and put all of them in the tank you plan to use for breeding. Do it this way because if you move a newly established pair to a breeding tank, you may meet with failure. Once you have a pair the male will start to mark off territories. Remove the extras after a pair splits off unless you have a large tank and lots of rockwork. It is best not to rearrange the rocks or move any decorations around in the aquarium once they form territories. This can stress them out and will very likely break the bond a male and female have made. The reason for this is that part of their bond is connected to the "territory" more than to each other.

The breeding tank should have moderately alkaline, medium hard water with to a pH of around 8.5 - 9.2, 8 - 14° dGH, and a temperature between 77 - 80.6° F (25 - 27 C). They are cave spawners so provide them with caves made from rocks and/or clay planting pots and/or pieces of slate, as they adhere their eggs to the "roof" of their cave. The male will entice the female into a cave and their spawn will be from 35 to 50 eggs. Make sure there are a lot of crevices for the young to hide in and do not use plecostomus in the tank, as they will eat the young during the night. For a higher success rate, siphon out most of the fry when they are older and put them in a separate 10 gallon tank, leaving just a few in the tank with the parents. Feed the fry baby brine shrimp.

Once the parents are ready to spawn again, they will allow the older fry to help with raising their siblings if the tank is large enough. At this point, if the tank is not large or does not have many places and crevices in which to hide, you may want to remove the fry. The fry are slow growers. It takes almost 4 months to get them to 1" in size. Raise the fry in a community tank of 60 gallons or more with other Tanganyikan cichlids of similar size. The fry can be damaged by nets

Credit :  

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/DickfeldsJulie.php

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