The Blue Neon a is possibly the least aggressive cichlid on the planet. Endemic to Lake Tanganyika, Blue Neons are extremely peaceful and prefer to school together in groups of 8-10 (without any problems); they completely tolerate conspecifics and actually seem to be friendly with each other; the same can also be said in regards to heterospecific tank mates. Blue Neons have a brick-red to bright red base color with several, spaced neon-blue horizontal lines down the length of the body (from the face all the way to the caudal fin); they also have neon-blue tipped fins with neon-blue markings throughout; this is how they received their well deserved nickname. The Blue Neon is a perfect choice for beginners, all the way to expert hobbyists; they are also extremely popular and are readily available through online retailers and local stores.
In the wild the Blue Neons inhabit deeper waters but will tend to stay close to towers of jumbled rocks. The males will hang underneath rock shelves while the females will swim in large schools above. Years ago it was thought that these fish were hard to keep, but following simple procedures will result in an easy fish to keep.
These are good fish for the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. In generaly they are easy to moderate to care for as long as regular water changes are done to keep water at optimal levels. However they prefer dim lighting and need rocks for security. These fish will swim upside down or vertically to be close to the rock surface. Males will stress out and fade in color if kept with companions that are too vigorous and without rocks structures and cave formations. Plants also help provide security for them.
In the wild they feed on drifting zooplankton in open water above the rocks. In the aquarium they can be be fed flakes including a high quality spirulina and frozen foods such as brine shrimp. Use foods with carotene to bring out their color. Feeding cyclops or artemia that will bring out their best colors, but once they get a taste for these they will usually ignore the flake.
It is suggested that you do not feed live foods and tubifex worms due to possible diseases and pathogens that may be transferred to your fish. Feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. A one-day-a-week 'fast' can also be beneficial. All fish benefit from vitamins and supplements added to their foods.
These fish have been bred in captivity and are mouthbrooders. For the easiest breeding, putting the Blue Neon in a species specific tank works best. If housed in a community tank, float plants so the females have a place to retreat when carrying the brood. The breeding tank should have neutral to slightly alkaline, medium hard water with to a pH of around 7 - 8.5, 10 - 15° dGH, and a temperature between 77 - 82.4° F (25 - 28 C).
They spawn about once a month. When ready to spawn, the female will find a spot in the substrate next to a wall and go nose down. This will prompt one of the males to situate himself above the female and release milt (sperm) as the female releases her eggs. The eggs are then fertilized externally. The female promptly picks up 10 to 12 fertilized eggs to carry her mouth. The brooding female will hold the young in her mouth for approximately 21 days and the fry will become free swimming after that.
The fry are large and will grow quickly. As they grow the fry do not get the protection from the female, so be sure to provide hiding places. The parents and other males and females will not eat the fry. The fry will start to eat when free swimming. First feed them brine shrimp and cyclops and after 2 to 3 months offer finely crushed flake. They are a creamy color after 2 months and sexually mature by 8 months.
credit :
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/BlueNeon.php
http://www.aquariumdomain.com/viewFreshwaterAfricanCichlid.php?id=76
http://www.aqua-fish.net/imgs/fish/paracyprichromis-nigripinnis.jpg
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